Thursday, January 31, 2013

“The More you Get Together the Happier you’ll be” December 9, 2011


December 9, 2011
 “The More you Get Together the Happier you’ll be”
            I’d like to preface this by saying I’m not entirely responsible for how everything panned out. It started off innocuously, 4 girls studying abroad in the south of France and wanting to “go somewhere” (as if being in Europe for a semester wasn’t enough) on their October break. England and Ireland for 120 euro? Sure...why not?  We had no idea that over the course of the following 6 days of hotel towel stealing, couch surfing, unrequited love and countless hours spent on planes, trains and buses we’d go from being pre-session acquaintances to best friends. It was the ultimate test of patience, endurance, pragmatism and goodwill. While we all suffered bouts of failure that led to a lot of foot stomping and pouting we survived without any casualties. In the end, we all grew a little closer and in doing so did some growing up ourselves.
GETTING THERE: MY VOYAGE         
            Tooth brush? Check. Contacts? Check. Ipod fully charged with a playlist dedicated to Adele, in order to hone into my inner British diva? Check. As I crossed the items off my “To Do List” (because I’m in fact that person who would forget to bring their passport) I sighed and stared at the heavy duty North Face backpack that looked like it was going to split at the seams. I hoisted it on my shoulders and headed towards the tram to meet up with the girls. We’d decided to be practical aka cheap about the airport transport and take the Herault bus. Mind you, public transportation in Montpellier is actually worth taking as it tends to be on time, cost efficient and you don’t have to worry about getting mugged in the process. We had arrived 20 minutes in advance because everyone knows you can never be too early! Unfortunately for us, 20 minutes came and went and after speaking with fellow travelers, we learned that there was an accident at the airport and the buses were being held up. Obviously, thinking the worst (that we’d be late for checking in and miss our flight) we caught a cab. My god…when I’d heard bedside manner was only practiced in America, I’d had no idea of how true a stereotype it was. The first cab we tried to haggle because after hearing our American accents the cabbie wanted to charge us 30 euro for a 15 minute ride. When we refused to budge and one of our newfound British friends got a little defensive, the cabbie cursed us off and drove away. We finally managed to get one and the guy still ripped us off but by not nearly as much and we felt we weren’t in the position to argue. Getting to the airport and waiting in line for our Birmingham flight, we saw our British friends who were ahead of us. They told us in their cheerful British accents that the bus had come literally 2 minutes after we’d left. Moral of the story…sometimes if you’re supposed to get screwed it’s going to happen no matter what.
            Going through airport security has gotten to be much like getting booked in jail. That same sense of violation of having everything you own put on display and the impersonal way you’re told to divest of your belt, shoes, wallet, earrings… On the way to Birmingham, I got stopped after sending in my backpack because I had a bottle of toothpaste that wasn’t in a clear plastic bag. The woman proceeded to gut my backpack of all of its contents which happened to include among the essentials: 2 bags of salt n’ vinegar chips, a bag of mandarin oranges and two different bags of cookies. As she kept pulling more and more packages of cookies from my backpack she told me in French, “What are you preparing for…a war?” I just shook my head and kept thinking, “How the hell is this all that going to fit back in my bag?” Years of traveling to Italy with my mother had taught me to always pack snacks because you never know when you have the time or opportunity to stop and eat. When she finally found the blue spearmint culprit and deemed it not a threat, I was allowed to part with my supplies and proceeded to fight my war against hunger one chocolate covered praline at a time!
            It was a good thing I’d packed so many snacks because traveling with Ryan Air necessitates you bring your own food and water unless you’re willing to die of thirst/hunger or pay 3 dollars for a midget sized can of Coke/a small Snickers bar. Having been a virgin Ryan Air flyer and being unaware of their guerilla tactics of advertising, I was incredibly thirsty and asked for a glass of water. At first the stewardess in her heinous pale yellow and bright blue uniform pretended not to hear me but after repeating myself and tacking on the word please with extra emphasis, she obliged. She returned with a warm cup of water and I inhaled it. Following my lead, my friend Megan asked for water to another stewardess when she came by with the drink cart. The conversation went something along the lines of this, “Could I possibly have a glass of water?”
            “Sure thing, sparkling or flat?”
“Uhhh…no just a regular glass of water, thanks!”
            “We don’t have water.”
“What do you mean you don’t have water? My friend just got a glass from that stewardess.”
            “We only have ice.”
“Okay…so can I get a glass of ice then?”
            “I guess.”
            I felt a bit guilty for the “kind” stewardess who was probably flogged and fired after for providing me water without being mandatorily bitchy and unhelpful. I suppose that in the cold hearted world of air travel there has to be a system of rules for bottom feeders like Ryan Air to survive and quite frankly for international airfare under 20 euro, I can’t even complain.
            That wasn’t our only troublesome encounter with Ryan Air…oh no…that would be too easy. Over the course of the 6 days and traveling from Montpellier to Birmingham, Birmingham to London, London to Dublin, Dublin to Liverpool and Liverpool to Carcassonne we each had a TSA search. I remember coming through the archway at airport security in Liverpool wearing a pair of spandex and a tight camisole top. I think I even skipped through the detector because I wasn’t wearing anything but the metal in the hook and eye strap of my bra. I came to an abrupt halt when one of the airport security women stopped me with her hand and informed me she was going to pat me down. I think I was in such shock; I just nodded my head while my friends stood on the side and laughed at my pain stricken face. She then diligently proceeded to make sure I wasn’t a threat to British national security because everyone knows a college girl with a Northface fleece and backpack just screams terrorist. I later learned from my friend Anne Marie, that when I went through a light flashed which meant I was one of the random 20 people they chose to pat down. At least I can put the TSA terrorist stereotypes and sexist rumors to rest.
            Along the course of our trip I resorted to my most animalistic tactics to bypass airport security. I did things I’m not too proud of.  I asked Anne Marie every time we’d go through security if I could cram my makeup and deodorant in her small plastic bag. On the way back from Dublin I poured my conditioner into empty shampoo containers because they were 100 ml and I didn’t feel like wasting the Pantene Pro-V. The worst was when I attempted to pull off being pregnant. I’d stuffed my giraffe pillow pet that I’d just purchased in the Dublin airport under my fleece because the Ryan Air attendant said it counted as a carryon.  I think given the circumstances I managed quite well. I pretended to be suffering a bit from back pain and did a shockingly good impersonation of Jennifer Lopez in The Back-Up Plan with the stomach rubbing and “My feet are killing me!” However, Megan got through carrying her purse and towel under her poncho and Anne Marie did the same with her blanket, so I might have just been kidding myself.
GETTING ALONG
Megan
            The trip was originally intended for Anne Marie, Kim and I because we were friends from pre-session and we’d decided we wanted to go somewhere. Megan decided to tag along after her plans to go to Rome with her good friend Erin fell through. It was really random as she wasn’t friends with any of us except casually nice to Kim. From the first couple of days in Montpellier, I’d already figured out who Megan was. We don’t have sorority life at Loyola but I’ve seen enough movies and heard enough stories to realize she fit the stereotypical sorority girl. She only hung out with the other University of Washington girls in the program who were in the Greek system and while she seemed fun loving and extroverted it was only directed to those she deemed “worthy” of her time. It didn’t really bother me because there were 30 other people in the program who were more than willing to be friendly and branch out. I just pegged her as one of those girls I’d end up being facebook friends with and write a “Happy birthday!” wall post to. When Kim first told us Megan was coming with us, I was confused more than anything. After hearing the whole story about her not having anything better to do it made a lot more sense.
            As it turns out Megan ended up teaching me the most about traveling. I guess outside of Montpellier and the dorms where she was only surrounded by what she knew Megan rose to the occasion. I had no idea what a free spirited person she was and how infectious it could be. When we were in the Birmingham airport she made friends with 2 British blonde haired and blue eyed toddlers who were the most angelic and well behaved children. Fast forward thirty minutes later, while waiting in the crowd to board and the father is trying to get them to stop because they keep making Megan jump and twirl and throwing themselves at her feet. She tried to divert the attention from her a bit by telling Isabella (the older one) to play with me. She laughed I couldn’t help but do so as well as I tried to keep my balance while jumping and not trip over my backpack.
            On the Dublin pub crawl she even got Anne Marie to loosen up after a couple of swigs of a bottle of wine. That night Megan stole a Guinness from the bar and when the owner, a guy with a skull mask, came to get it he asked me if I’d seen who took it. I obviously acted stupid and when she came up to me I laughed and told her, “The guy is looking for his beer you’re better off leaving it alone.” She didn’t believe me at first but when she saw him questioning other people she waited about 30 seconds before saying, “Okay, come to the back with me and drink it I hid it we’re good!” In the moment it was absolutely hysterical. Later on that night, she jumped on a stranger’s back who surprisingly held her and when he asked me where she was from and I said, “Oregon,” he just smiled and said, “Figures.”
            The following morning when we woke up at 6 am and boarded a bus for 3 hours to Galway, instead of being hung-over and temperamental she was the exact opposite. If you’ve ever seen a commercial with the Energizer bunny, it was like that but if the bunny had swallowed massive amount of adderall. She was prancing and dancing in the grassy hills on our tour of an authentic Irish Bern. Most memorable quote from that trip being her logic of why the Irish countryside was spelled differently, “It’s Bern like Barn like Fern is Farm,” sounds crazy enough to sound right but it’s not… Then she fell in “love” with the boy sitting in front of us on the bus who happened to be a self-hating Italian living in the Germanic autonomous region of northern Italy. His name was Andreas but Megan quickly nicknamed him Andy and proceeded to shout things like, “I love you Andy! Don’t you just love to love? I love to love things.” The poor kid, it probably took him all day to realize that it was all in good fun. He even asked me a few times if she was a little crazy with a pantomime and smile. It was the funniest thing hearing him attempt to communicate in his broken English with a heavy German accent of his intense dislike for Italy and watching Megan’s face fall (partially serious and joking) as she realized he wasn’t the perfect guy she wished he’d be. It didn’t stop her from crushing on him though, as she stole his orange hat repeatedly and they exchanged facebook information. It must have been fate because as we got off the Cork bus into Dublin we ran into Andy on the street as he was leaving for Italy When Megan shouted, “Andy! Don’t go I love youuuu!” He replied, “Me too…” Which I’m guessing was his English attempt at saying, “I love you too!” They still facebook poke to this day…
            What I love about Megan is her gusto for living and experiencing everything. She’s open to doing anything and everything and she rarely thinks about the consequences. For example, she thought it was a perfectly good idea to change from her yoga pants to jeans under the table of a supermarket in Dublin. People were eating their baps and paying for their milk, while she casually stripped down to her thong and no one noticed. I think getting to know her allowed me to realize I was missing out. It can be a lot of fun when you just let yourself be you and not think about how you look. Case in point, Halloween night in Cork, while walking back we somehow decided it would be fun to spin each other and proceeded to do so the entire way home. It doesn’t sound so bad, until you factor in that practically everyone from Loyola was in Cork that weekend and on that same street.
Kim
            Kim was the organizer of the group and in retrospect if I could have taken some of the pressure off of her I would have. She literally booked all of our travel, even down to the bus from Dublin to Cork. I could tell that having that inadvertent responsibility was wearing thin on her when a couple of days into the trip and countless, “Kim, what time is our flight/bus/train?” She would hastily retort, “I printed out the itineraries for everyone, if you want to know you can look it up yourself.” It was the first time I’d ever seen good-natured Kim, who was kind enough to let Megan come on the trip, snap and honestly it was kind of refreshing. Together, when we got frustrated over Megan and Anne Marie walking at an incredibly fast rate (they were wearing sneakers) while we tried to figure out the map or the next site to visit we’d vent. We had a similar mindset, we wanted to do it all, see it all and we weren’t going to accept “No,” as a possibility. We pretty much commandeered where we were going and what we were doing for the entire group even though we had little to no knowledge of London or Dublin. I guess faking that you know what’s going on and where to go is really all you need to lead. However, you cannot captain a crewless ship which is why I was so grateful for my co-captain Kim. When I wanted to go to the Guinness Factory, Kim was the one to offer the suggestion of visiting before going to the Dublin airport. She even went with me despite being so hung-over she didn’t want her free Guinness. No matter where you go you always need someone who supports you.

Anne Marie
            Anne Marie is undoubtedly the closest friend I had abroad. I guess that’s why she’s the hardest to sum up in a couple of paragraphs and why it’s so difficult for me to put into words how she made my trip in England and Ireland so memorable. Instead of doing the stereotypical thing and talking about all the “great times” with a montage of scenes of our best moments, the only way I can show how great of friends we are and how I learned from her is to show the “not so great times.” We didn’t get into rumbles or whip out make shift knives from plastic cutlery but we had a couple of disagreements. Firstly, regarding objects allowed in carryon luggage. She got through airport security with a razor while I got my back emptied for carrying toothpaste outside a plastic bag. Naturally, when I discovered this I was a bit taken aback. I chalked it up to an oversight by one of the TSA people as they were clearly too preoccupied with the biohazardous waste… I mean dental cleaner that was my toothpaste. She was convinced that razors were on the acceptable list because her dad travels a lot and had never gotten stopped. I reasoned with her that maybe they were more lenient on domestic flights but she was convinced otherwise. Throughout the entire trip, I’d throw random items in conversations just to mess with her, “Are a pair of scissors okay? What about box cutters…there are tons of boxes to cut while on a plane it’s a necessity…like shaving!” She told me she’d prove me wrong and I would just nod sardonically in response. That is until she actually did. She sent me an official website of items air travel safe for carry. She was right and I was speechless.
            The ever organized Anne Marie also thought to bring a plastic bag for all her liquids and I of course didn’t but wasn’t about to pay a euro for a 10 centime Ziploc so I asked her if I could put my stuff in hers. Even though she had this tiny plastic bag and it was already ¾ full of her toothpaste, shampoo (in those designated 100 ml traveling cases) blush and lip-gloss she let me. Mind you I asked her to hold my makeup, shampoo and deodorant from Montpellier to Birmingham, Birmingham to London, London to Dublin, Dublin to Liverpool and Liverpool to Carcassonne. By the end of the trip, we had a good routine going but obviously to say it was incredibly annoying was an understatement. Despite this inconvenience, every time she was more than willing to make my stuff fit in the bag and never told me, “Why don’t you just get a bag?” She just understood that it was the principle of having to pay such an exaggerated price for something as cheap as a plastic baggie that stopped me from investing in my own.
            She’s also very independent. Besides possessing a superhuman map reading talent and inherent spatial skills (only when she’s not hungry though…when starvation strikes she loses her power) she’s totally okay with doing her own thing. In Dublin, while Kim, Megan and I visited the Guinness factory, she opted to venture into the city herself. She visited the inside of the Christ Church and Cathedral (we’d only seen the outside on our tour) and saw the famous Tom and Jerry inspired mummified cat and mouse. She also found the time to go to a farmer’s market and went shopping. When we came back I half-expected Anne Marie to be lost and late but she had been waiting for us for 10 minutes with the cutest purple stone earrings and a Celtic ring. I think the reason why Anne Marie and I mesh so well as friends is because we get each other but we’re also quite different. She provides me with the necessary reality check that I’m not always right and the reassurance that it’s okay to do your own thing.
GETTING TO KNOW YOU
            I know this is supposed to be about me and at first glance it seems to be just the opposite. You see it’s impossible to talk about the traveler I’ve become without talking about the 3 girls that helped shape me into one. It was through their patience, laughter, stubbornness, carelessness, confidence and willingness to put up with me, that I was able to become the voyager I am. After spending 6 days and nights with these girls in a 26 bedroom hostile and on essentially a stranger’s bed, in cramped flights and coach buses, I was able to see them at their best and their worst. Through that, I think I was able to learn and take a little bit of what makes each of them the ideal traveler. From Megan, I realized it doesn’t hurt to be spontaneous and not care about what others think (even if it means spinning on a street corner in front of all of your peers.) From Kim, I learned that it’s important to have some backbone of organization when you travel…at least how to get there and if you want to visit something badly enough you can always make it happen (even if it’s 5 hours before you have to catch a flight). From Anne Marie, it’s her independence that I most admire and have tried to emulate (even if it means going off by yourself to explore your own interests.) From me, I hope they were able to take away that sometimes when it comes to airport security you have to be ruthless (even it means pretending to be pregnant to smuggle in your stuffed animal giraffe). However, I believe the most important thing these girls taught me about traveling is that it really isn’t the landscape, souvenirs, sites or food that makes a place special it’s the people you share it with that really make a difference. I think there’s such a simple truth to the little children’s song I used to sing in kindergarten, “The more you get together the happier you’ll be.”

Abrakebabra…Everywhere you go Kebabs! Fall 2011


Abrakebabra…Everywhere you go Kebabs!
            Kebabs. When I used to hear that word it would conjure up images of pieces of steak sandwiched between vegetables like zucchini and sweet peppers on a stick. The preparation would involve throwing these meat and vegetable popsicles on a grill until they would get charred to perfection. By perfection, I do mean for the food to have black parallel lines running across them and not in actuality turning so crisp you can barely tell the difference between a piece of steak and  yellow squash.
            Kebabs are not the same in France. You try to explain what an “American” kebab is and you quickly realize how futile the past 10 minutes of conversation have been, as well as how embarrassingly ineffective your pantomimes are. “You know…the wooden sticks (trying to find a stick on the floor)…you put the meat and the vegetables…argghh!” That is not to say that kebabs are not popular in France. On the contrary, they are to French people what a cheeseburger is to an American…indispensible.
            Unlike the Americanized version, the doner kebab hails from Turkey. It is a pita or wrap (your choice) filled with lamb/chicken that has been seasoned and rotates on a spit. Occasionally for flavor the spit will have a frozen beef tomato on top which when progressively cooked, drips its sweet juices onto the tenderized meat, adding both flavor and moisture. When it comes to kebabs, some stands will offer you the option of what goes into it much like a taco or salad bar while others opt for the time saving classic ingredients. Add a little diced tomatoes, lettuce, purple onions, black olives and your choice of sauce.
            Some will argue that what you put in the kebab pales in comparison to what really makes each one unique…the sauce. Everything ranging from keeping it simple with ketchup or curry to mixing it up with samurai (ketchup and mayonnaise) and sauce blanche (yogurt based herb sauce) you want it you got it. I gravitate more towards the spicy chili and lots of sauce blanche. It was through this love of white sauce that I was told a funny albeit slightly gross joke. The gag goes that some kebab owners like most fast food workers feel undervalued and belittled at their work. To take vengeance on the unsuspecting but troublesome customers the sauce blanche contains a little more than just yogurt and herbs. Without going into grotesque detail it is obviously one of those poor-taste jokes like a pinky finger in chili or the rat tail in a dumpling but regardless everyone knows the story and loves to repeat it.
            It goes without saying that if you are going to go towards a carbohydrate comatose-like state you might as well do it up and get the formulaire. The meal plan comes with a soft drink and fries that always appear to be freshly dipped in oil and crisp to the taste. If you are too zealous you run the risk of burning the roof of your mouth which necessitates you to actually savor your fast food. I know it is unheard of! Although it probably explains why most French people are so incredibly fit. Eating a 1,000 calorie kebab while walking everywhere from class to the supermarket and the back home will eventually cancel all the fats out.
            Whether you like or not if you live in Montpellier, which boasts a growing 62 kebab stands, odds are you have seen, been exposed, tasted or fallen in love with the doner kebab. If it is not the actual ingredients that hook you it is the sheer convenience and the price that get you. For 4 euros and 50 centimes you can get a satisfying meal with your daily intake of meat, dairy and vegetables, no matter how negligible the amount or the actual quality is. You will not get anything for that good a price in Montpellier where a bottle of peach iced tea will set you back 3 euros. The greatest everyday victory is discovering a new kebab stand with a cheaper formulaire.             Conversations usually go something like this, “So what did you eat for lunch today? Wait no…let me guess… a kebab?”      
            “Yes, but it wasn’t just ANY kebab…I found a place on the corner of the Comedie the one with the red awning by the movie theatre…a chicken kebab, drink and fries all for 3 euros and 40 centimes!”
            “No! C’est pas vrai…are you serious?”
            “I couldn’t make it up if I tried. You should check it out they have lamb too…I think.”
            “How would you feel about going again tonight…for dinner?”
            “I’mdown.”
            I was speaking to one of my French friends who told me after I professed my newfound addiction to kebabs that when he was in high school he would eat at least one a day for lunch. For the French, kebabs are more than just a cheap novelty targeting tourists. They are an accustomed food staple like anything greasy and cheap (insert McDonalds food item) to Americans. No matter how many kebabs you eat you can never have enough. I remember taking the tram back from food shopping one day and I laughed out loud because I read a kebab stand sign that said in French, “There’s never a wrong time or place for a kebab.” It sounds silly but it is incredibly accurate. When you are hung over and need a quick meal to fill your stomach or you have spent the entire day at the library and are not in the mood to stand in the dormitory kitchen clicking the on switch for the hot plate…you are in a kebab state of mind. When you cannot quite force yourself to go to McDonalds on the principle that you are in fact in France and should not be resorting to American fast food…you are in a kebab state of mind. And when you just get that inexplicable urge to sink your teeth into a hot pita overflowing with steaming spiced meat, crisp onions, juicy tomatoes and creamy white sauce…then you are in a kebab state of mind.
            It also helps create an appetite for kebabs when the vendors are friendly. I remember my first kebab like it was yesterday (when in actuality yesterday’s kebab was probably my 217th). I had only arrived to Montpellier two days before and I was starving. Going food shopping was an art not yet mastered as I was having difficulties getting around on the tram and speaking the most basic of French. It was my preconceived notion that I had to eat a “French” meal which led me to discover my first kebab.
            Much like Christopher Columbus in search of a faster trading route to the Indies and ending up in America, I was searching for the quintessential French lunch and ended up with a kebab. I remember getting the wrapped burrito-esque item and starting to rip apart the tin foil to get at it. The owner came over to me knowing that I was clearly not French and pantomimed, “Wait…let me show you how it’s done.” As I patiently stood back he took the kebab and artfully rewrapped the tin foil around the pita. He demonstrated that the correct way to eat a kebab is to work the tin foil down as you eat it insuring that all the contents end up in your mouth and not on your lap. I was and still am eternally grateful to the kebab vendor of Albert Premier for teaching me the right kebab eating method as well as always giving me extra sauce blanche every time I choose to indulge myself.
            Since being in France, I have internalized a quote Voltaire once said about eating, « Rien ne serait plus ennuyeux que manger et boire si Dieu ne les avait pas fait un plaisir de même qu'une nécessité. » Essentially what it means is that nothing would be more boring than eating and drinking if God did not make it both a pleasure as well as a necessity. While America seems to have overlooked this quote, France has not. Eating like breathing is something we need to do to survive but it does not happen without effort. One needs to truly enjoy what they are eating and to do so they need to be attracted to the look, the aroma, the texture and the taste. This is why even something as cheap and convenient as a kebab appeals to the French senses. The intoxicating smell of the rotating spit of lamb simmering in the heat of the grill, the sizzle as the vendor cuts slices and scraps fall onto the hot metal surface, the vibrant hues of diced red tomatoes and chopped purple onions, the feel of the warm pita between your fingers and the indescribable taste of deliciousness.
             It is basic understanding that you cannot truly take pleasure from a meal unless you have the time to do so. This is something Americans tend to neglect in their pursuit for other more “important” things like money or a time share in the Bahamas. Even a kebab which is considered fast food is savored slowly at table with friends. With a two hour break for lunch, to eat your food in less than 20 minutes would not only be idiotic but wasteful. Furthermore food always tastes better when it is enjoyed in good company. Have you ever noticed the way something as simple as a bowl of popcorn seems to last forever and taste so good when sharing it during a late night movie with friends? Would it taste nearly as good scarfed down in ten minutes before class all by yourself? No. The French understand the significance of good things taking time. Whether it is enjoying a kebab after a long night of drinking at a pub or as a way of reconnecting with friends…kebabs are like magic, when you really want one a stand will appear.

Reflections on Misconceptions - Sometime in September/October 2011


Journal Entry 1: Reflections on Misconceptions
            I’m currently seated at my desk with its imitation grain wood finish wondering why I have an incredible amount of sand on my chair and simultaneously trying to think about how to start my first account of Montpellier? I now understand why journaling necessitates a will power to recount the day’s events as I find myself at a loss for how to describe all the incredibly embarrassing and delightful moments I’ve experienced these past three weeks.
            What started with a 16 hour bus ride from Naples, Italy, a pit stop at Marseilles and finally my arrival at Montpellier, France has now led me to feel like a different person. Not different in the sense that I’ve somehow majestically transformed into the epitome of a French girl with effortless style and a “je ne sais quoi” X factor attitude but rather changed in a way that makes me feel less like a gaudy American tourist. You know the image it brings forth with the sun block on the nose and the fanny pack securely fastened around the waist (I only resorted to the fanny pack upon my parent’s insistence it now lays buried in one of my luggage pockets…never to see the light of day if I can help it). Reflecting on how much I’ve been able to get accustomed to in such a short period of time has allowed to me look at a lot of the misconceptions that I had and even have now about France. If French people were to look at me I would hope they wouldn’t be able to spot that I’m a tourist just by sight alone and only realize I’m American once I open my mouth to speak and say “Excusez-moi” with a New York accent.
            I realize it sounds incredibly clichéd but when I think back to my first day in Montpellier when I thought that the tram lines were akin to train tracks and refused to walk on them for fear of getting hit by an ongoing tram (it turns out trams only clock in at about 15 mph) I can’t help but laugh. The real menace on the road happens to be the tiny Fiats and Peugeots that seem to have a life of their own whenever you find yourself crossing the street. It takes a leap of faith to put your foot on the white painted line of the crosswalk because the traffic lights mean nothing to French drivers. This entropy theory was only further proved when I happened to be the unfortunate victim of a ride home from The Greyhound Pub (no the irony is not lost on me) with a couple of French friends. The speed limit…what speed limit? As I was hurled against the sides of the windows and onto the laps of my two friends who were also sitting in the backseat, I couldn’t help but think what I wanted my last seconds of life to be. I couldn’t envision crashing head on; to the sounds of a techno beat whose bass was so loud I could feel it thumping in time with my elevated heart rate. And yet while I don’t think I can confidently say I’ve mastered the art of crossing the street I think I’ve gotten a little more apt at walking in big groups and making eye contact…it’s a start right?
            Another severely understated conception about France is the demographic and their attitude towards hygiene. After three weeks of taking public transportation and being in confined spaces with many French people I’ve come to the conclusion that there is a polarizing divide between the debate of deodorant which really shouldn’t be a debate to begin with. You’ve got on one corner the pros who smell of Chanel Number 5 and Aqua di Gio from Giorgio Armani, they seem to emanate a cloud of cleanliness and sophistication. In the other corner, you’ve got the cons whose idea of hygiene must mean only wearing the same shirt three times and showering once every week. Okay, so I might be exaggerating a tad bit but there’s nothing quite as horrific as standing in a stuffy bus crammed against someone’s backside and underneath the armpit of a gentleman who decides to hold the handlebars on the top of the bus and who neglected to wear an anti-perspirant that morning. I don’t think any amount of days, weeks, months or years will ever allow me to fully acclimate to the smell of body odor but I have found that if you douse yourself with perfume beforehand when said unfortunate circumstances arrive, you can resort to sniffing your shirt. Holding your breath also works wonders and thankfully Montpellier isn’t that big of a city where you might pass out before you reach your destination.
            Before I came to France I thought that I’d be eating snails or frogs legs at every other meal. In retrospect I realize how incredibly “American tourist” that was of me considering those are delicacies of certain regions.  It would be much like how in Italy there’s a delicacy called sanguinaccio which is essentially a hazelnut chocolate spread made with…wait for it…pigs blood. Yes, that would be the “sangue” in the name and while it might be good, in all my summers spent in Italy I can’t say I’ve ever tried it. It’s funny because one night while talking about French stereotypes with a bunch of French people I realized that delicacies are dead giveaways for tourists. One guy actually laughed when I asked him if he’d ever eaten “cuisses de grenouille” and grimaced when I mentioned “escargot.” I was informed that tourists pay big money in commercialized cities like Paris to taste what they believe to be typical French cuisine while French people themselves don’t typically eat them. In reality France should really be re-nicknamed the “Panini” country instead of “Wine and Cheese” because they take their sandwiches and carbohydrates for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Who would have figured that I would grow such a tolerance and even dare I say it a liking for camembert cheese, cured sausage and baguettes. Those three basic food staples compose about roughly 99 percent of my diet, partially out of economic feasibility and partially because of the sheer seconds it takes to cut up some saucisson and slather some cheese on a fresh crumbly loaf just purchased at the closest Carrefour

“France: You Live and You Learn” - October 5, 2011


October 5, 2011
France: You Live and You Learn
            My high school’s motto was “Pride through diversity.” It seemed like such a nonsensical phrase at the time. How do you even quantify diversity let alone boast about it? It’s not as if we went around with cardboard signs stating our race and ethnicities, “Caucasian…100% Italian.” Walking through the maroon locker halls of my high school you’d see Abercrombie waffle knit shirts and tattered boot cut jeans amongst basketball jerseys with fitted hats in coordinated colors and it was normal. Overhearing gossip peppered with phrases like “g-shit” and “ya tu sabes” was just another lunch period at Sleepy Hollow.
            I never realized how much I’d taken it for granted until freshman year of college rolled around and I found myself experiencing culture shock. As a white person at a university where a majority of the student body is also white you’d wonder how it’d be conceivable that I’d feel out of my element. I’d been transplanted from a world where Dominican Republic Independence day is practically a national holiday and a gym class were we warmed up to DMX’s “Ruff Ryders Anthem” to a society that seemed to revolve around the newest Vera Bradley print and what t-shirt could also serve the dual purpose of a dress. Now I consider myself a pretty adaptable person; coming from a straight off the boat Italian family and being one of 5 siblings tends to make you that way. After four semesters at Loyola I found myself not quite being sucked into the world of Tory Birch and “white girl problems” but assimilating just fine. I’d gotten used to the grimaces my friends would make when I’d throw out the word “black” in Boulder and having to justify the superfluity of taking a motor pool van to a community service site that was literally two blocks down the street from CVS on York Road.
            Culture shock wouldn’t be an issue any longer because I thought I’d seen it all. Going to Montpellier for a semester was going to be my French dreams coming to fruition. A country where people could eat all the baguettes and brie they could stomach and never gain a kilo. French people would all look like they stepped out of the pages of a J. Crew catalogue and wear striped shirts in neutral colors like navy and black. They’d be patient and understanding when you’d stumble to find the right conjugation to ask for directions and before you know it you’d be laughing and getting a glass of Rose with them at the nearest pub. Needless to say I think I watched films like “Paris, Je T’Aime” and “Amelie” too many times. This grandiose dream of French society slowly deflated like a helium filled balloon that got caught on the sharp branches of reality.
            I arrived to Montpellier in the most unconventional ways. Rather than taking a flight to Paris and then the TGV my travel savvy father thought it would be best for me to take a 16 hour bus from Naples, Italy to Marseilles, France and then board another bus to get to my final destination. It goes without saying that 16 hours of anything is 16 hours too long. When I ended up at the Montpellier bus station miraculously unscathed and only slightly delirious I was shocked to see trains decorated with red, orange, yellow and green flowers. If it hadn’t been for Marion (my French resident assistant) I would have probably stayed there for hours and watched the colorful transportation zoom past me. She tried to explain to me in halting French and English the simplicity of the tram system but I had already labeled them too complicated for everyday use. When we walked out I noticed the tracks they ran on and while the logical part of me reasoned they were not electrical it reminded me of the New York City subway system and how it’s absolutely not allowed to walk on the tracks and only advisable if you have a death wish. For that reason I refused to walk on the “tram street” and for the longest time would only cross after looking both ways at least 10 times while sprinting to the other side. Now I realize how stupid I was to think that jaywalking on essentially a sky rail system would be dangerous. The trams only clock in at about 15 miles per hour and the drivers make a point to slow down and even stop if they see bikers or pedestrians walking on the tracks.
            Trams are an invaluable method of transportation to Montpellier. You can pretty much get anywhere important in the city with Line 1 or 2 and in 10 years it’s said that Montpellier will run completely on the tram system. It’s a far cry from the yellow taxis I’m used to hailing to get from Times Square to Grand Central Station or York Road to Newman Towers but it’s a lot cheaper so I’m not complaining. They’re also a great way to people watch and as a foreigner with little to no disposable income for cable it provides a free source of entertainment. You’ll see the typical PDA couples who even in rush hour pressed up against an old woman with her groceries and a middle schooler with a bulging backpack will proceed to passionately make out as if the power of the tram depends on it. You’ll also witness the occasional drama. The drunken teenagers who stumble to catch the last tram to avoid walking back. They’ll try to speak English (much like they way after a couple of beers suddenly you find yourself fluent in French) and hilarity ensues because statements like, “I would f---k him with my straight finger” get said instead of what they presumably meant, “I would f---k him up with one finger.”
            It’s all in good fun until it goes too far and you’re put into a situation where you realize that you’re not in America anymore. A couple of weeks ago I went to the grocery store with one of my friends and what began with a simple quest for tea and honey ended up in a fist fight. It was 4 o’clock in the afternoon and we’d just gotten out from our phonetics class so we walked over to the closest Carrefour Market. While we were waiting online she innocuously placed the divider between her stuff and this Heineken this guy behind her was buying. Like she’d flipped an invisible switch this guy started to spew out curse words saying awful things of which I could only grasp “puttane Chinoise,” calling her in French a “Chinese whore.” He was incredibly wrong on both counts as Kim’s actually Vietnamese and the farthest thing from anything remotely street walker material and while she stood there tight lipped I couldn’t help but fume. The guy wouldn’t stop with the insults the cashier even had to tell him to “Arreter” or “Stop.” I made eye contact with Kim to avoid starting a problem and audibly said in English that I had the insatiable desire to punch this asshole in the face.
            When we left and started walking towards the tram stop we started to list the unfavorable things in France/Europe we wouldn’t miss and how that level of disrespect was number one. Waiting for the tram under the blue awning we had the misfortune to run into the guy from the supermarket again although he was on the other side going in the opposite direction towards Odysseum. He kept shouting obscenities at Kim and I couldn’t take it anymore so I replied using a lot of four letter English words that have universal understanding thinking it would shut him up. It didn’t. At this point it was getting a little ridiculous. The guy was around our age, old enough to know better and he was picking on girl by making fun of her when he was clearly not a “Eugene Delacroix” of direct French origins but probably if I had to guess Moroccan. He stopped and we figured he’d finally gotten the point until we watched him almost as if in slow motion extend his arm back like a baseball pitch and throw his beer can at Kim. Thankfully he missed and his can hit the top of the awning but some of the beer remnants still splashed on Kim and I and that was it. All of the self control I had thought I possessed fled my body and I was suddenly too enraged to speak. The only times I’ve felt that angry are when I’ve gotten into full on fights with my older brothers and it never ends well as I never know to back down and end up holding my head and fighting back tears.
            I know that I should have been more diplomatic about the situation and I was when he was just throwing words around but when I saw her pained face and by comparison his stupid grin it was too much. I threw down my pink Monoprix school bag crossed the street and got up in his face all 5 feet and 3 and 3/4 inches of me in my jean shorts and cut off t-shirt. I told him in a low no nonsense voice to, “Back the f--k up,” they were the only words I could get out and I kept repeating them thinking that I could show him how serious I was and he would stop. That’s typically how bullying works. If you stand up for yourself the person realizes not to mess with you and backs down. It didn’t exactly pan out that way.
            It ended up looking more like a deleted scene from an episode of the Jerry Springer show minus the trashy subtext about a cheating husband. He pushed me in the chest and I pushed him back all the while repeating my four word phrase. Pause. See this is the point in time where if I was back home someone, anyone….guy or girl would have come to my defense and tried to break us up or make sure I was okay. There would have been at least 10 Chinese people that would have come out of nowhere ready to beat that guy up and a cop car on its way but I was in Montpellier not Sleepy Hollow. Play. The guy went to push me again and as I fought back he lifted me up and at one point I was fighting the air. When I came back down to the ground I held my stance and we entwined hands and he wasn’t cutting me any slack for being a girl. When I told him I would punch him in the face if he didn’t stop he made it clear that he would punch me back. All the while people looked on but didn’t do anything. At this point I knew he wasn’t joking and my adrenaline rush had subsided into cold fear. It may sound really weird but I have this irrational fear of getting my teeth knocked out so with that thought planted in my head I feigned kicking him where it hurts and he cringed. I took his moment of weakness as a stroke of opportunity because the tram had just arrived and I ran to the other side and caught it. While heading back to the dorm I noticed that my pinky finger had suffered the brunt of the fight. As I  watched it swell to twice its size and turn black and blue at the knuckle it really hit me that I couldn’t just go up to people and tell them off like I could in Sleepy Hollow. In this strange new place moral codes like chivalry and not hitting a girl didn’t exist.
            It’s taken about a month of making judging and complaining at every bureaucratic inadequacy but it’s finally hit me that my problem is that I keep making comparisons. It’s normal to comment on differences and to fondly remember the capitalistic alternative to everything from registering for classes to signing up for a debit card. However I think this stage can quickly cycle into a cynical state of mind that feeds off of homesickness and that’s not healthy. While my expectations of Montpellier were somewhat unrealistic, I’m realistic enough to know that they were before I set foot on French soil. It would have been great to not have had to experience firsthand the puzzled and slightly annoyed expressions of French people when asking for simple things like the “courrier” (mail) or the “pain chocolate.” I’d have loved to have known that French people either smell really good or really bad as I’d have made a mental note to pack a small deodorizing spray to keep on hand for those interminable crowded trips on the tram. If I’d come to France knowing that that condescending attitude was prevalent towards foreigners I wouldn’t ever speak French and work as hard as I have to be understood. If I carried around a bottle of Lysol I’d miss out on the intoxicating smells of the kebab vendors, the patisseries with their fresh baguettes and the creperies with their heavenly Nutella guafres made right in front of you.  I’d basically be missing out on France and all it has to offer and for that reason I’ve decided to just live and learn. 

My Travel Writing Essays

These are the essays I wrote for my Travel Writing class that I'm uploading because I have a striking suspicion that in the not so distant future my poor octogenarian of a laptop will move on to a better place where outdated technology like Walkmans and Gameboy Colors go to die. So here they are...